Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
