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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.